Sunday, October 30, 2011

Goats Galore in My Local Town Square


A couple of weeks ago I posted about André Gouiran, my local goatherd poet who, every year in October, organises a big shindig in the next village dedicated to the wonders of the goat. Well, he's just posted a clip of last weekend's event, which stars 360 of the beasties being shepherded (or perhaps that should be goatherded) into the tiny town square.

If you'd like to catch a glimpse of this eccentric local highlight, click here. It's my Facebook page (I haven't managed to find the URL of the clip to post it directly). It's the second post down. The top post (in French) is a piece from La Provence newspaper about the craze for nude hiking in the Montagne Sainte Victoire, the mighty limestone hill immortalised by Cézanne. It's pretty amusing too.

PS don't forget to "like" my Facebook page for regular updates!

Sunday, October 23, 2011

Cabals, Corruption, Excess, Compromise: The Story of the Avignon Papacy

A couple of weeks ago I blogged about the "secret" tour of the Palais des Papes, a privileged peek into the pontiffs' private living quarters and their pampered way of life. Now to complement this, I've written a post about the Palais's public areas, the rivetting history of those maverick Avignon Popes - and why they left Rome in the first place. Click here to read more. 

Sunday, October 16, 2011

Christmas Markets in Provence

Aromatic lavender fields, sun-drenched beaches, perfectly chilled rosé wine on the terrace serenaded (if that's the right word) by cicadas.... That's what everyone associates with Provence. But, steeped in mystery and tradition, this part of France is even lovelier minus the tourist crowds. Forget the over-run Christmas markets of Northern and Central Europe. Instead, here's a guide to Avignon, Aix en Provence, Arles, Marseille and the surrounding region in the magical midwinter months, one of my very favourite times of year. Click here to read more. 

Friday, October 14, 2011

Coffee with Olympique de Marseille's Number One Fan

Coffee with Catherine Brun at the Brasserie OM on Marseille's Old Port was quite an experience. This exuberant Marseillaise is a familiar face on television (waiters approach her for her autograph), the owner of a B&B for pets, a volunteer tourist guide and, first and foremost the Number One fan of Olympique de Marseille, the city's legendary football team. Click here to read more: scroll down the article to find my interview with Catherine in easyJet Traveller.

Sunday, October 9, 2011

From Here and There in Avignon

I've almost finished posting about my latest trip to Avignon, but I couldn't sign off without a word of warm recommendation for this terrific little brasserie right in the heart of town. The place de l'Horloge - the epicentre of the papal city's tourism - is lined with humdrum pizzerias offering the most basic of set menus for 12 Euros, but for the same price Beatrice Bellegarde, the visionary chef at D'Ici et d'Ailleurs, will whip you up a superb set lunch of inventive classic French and cosmopolitan fusion dishes just round the corner. Click here to read more. 

Saturday, October 1, 2011

Avignon: A Tale of Two Train Stations


The two rail stations in Avignon are a study in contrasts. The city centre one has a touch of 19th century elegance with its ornate facade and stone water fountains on the train platforms. Opened in 2001, Avignon TGV is ultra-modern, with its sleek, elegant contours designed to resemble the hull of an upturned boat. Which one to come into? All is revealed in our ultimate guide. Click here to read more.

Sunday, September 25, 2011

Sur le Pont d'Avignon

On our recent trip to Avignon, we thought we'd better take a stroll along the city's iconic bridge (remembering to turn around after the fourth arch, of course, when the structure, the victim of flood damage, suddenly ends). Does it live up to all the song and dance about it? Click here to read more.

Wednesday, September 21, 2011

Avignon on Wheels

Walking around Avignon should be a cinch - after all, the walled city is compact and contained. However, after I'd spent a day wobbling along the cobbled streets and climbing up and down the steep, winding staircases of the Palais des Papes, sitting back and relaxing on wheels seemed like a more and more attractive option. If this applies to you too, then be sure to bookmark our complete guide to how to zip around Avignon by local transport - everything from a Vélopop (that's a bicycle to you and me) to a Baladine (electric bus, pictured above in its red Christmas livery -- it's normally a bright eco-friendly green). Click here to read more.

Sunday, September 18, 2011

There Is Such A Thing As A Free Lunch

In Avignon recently, I very quickly learned (as you do) where the locals go for a great free lunch. In Les Halles, Avignon's excellent covered market (which bears no relationship at all to its bland Paris namesake), you will find a cornucopia of fantastic produce at all times. Every Saturday morning, however, a leading chef, such as Richard Bagnol (pictured) of L'Oulo in nearby Mazan, clocks in to give a cookery demonstration at the "petite cuisine" or "little kitchen" set up in a corner of the market specifically for the purpose. Then the onlookers get to eat his results, accompanied by a wine tasting from a local vintner. Click here to read more.

Wednesday, September 14, 2011

The Goatherd-Poet of Le Rove

My local goatherd  is quite a character. He is the last herder in the village and makes a cheese, Brousse du Rove, from the milk which is much-prized by Michelin-starred restaurants in the area. On the side, he's a poet, novelist, writer of comic songs about Provence and founder of the illustrious Golden Goat Association. I interviewed him recently for EasyJet magazine. Click here to read more.