Aromatic lavender fields, sun-drenched beaches, perfectly chilled rosé wine on the terrace serenaded (if that's the right word) by cicadas.... That's what everyone associates with Provence. But, steeped in mystery and tradition, this part of France is even lovelier minus the tourist crowds. Forget the over-run Christmas markets of Northern and Central Europe. Instead, here's a guide to Avignon, Aix en Provence, Arles, Marseille and the surrounding region in the magical midwinter months, one of my very favourite times of year.
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