A Fistful of Sea Urchins

'Tis the season for shellfish - and although this strip of the Mediterranean is not especially rich in it, the locals tuck into oyster, cockles, prawns, whelks, sea urchins and all other marine goodies with gusto. I went along recently to sample the wares at Marseille's historic seafood restaurant Chez Toinou http://bit.ly/Uwi9Ag - and am already making diary dates for the brilliant open-air sea-urchin feasts that take place each Sunday morning at Sausset les Pins, Carry le Rouet and other villages along the Blue Coast from early next month. http://bit.ly/9ObbVE