In Marseille yesterday, with a couple of hours to kill while waiting for a train, we thought we'd have lunch at Le Comptoir Dugommier. I've walked past it a hundred times, and read a lot about it: it's a lovely old fin de siècle brasserie that has been given a hip modern makeover by its new owners (a designer and antique dealer) that respects its elegant traditional interior. It has a great local reputation for its atmosphere and fantastic-value food, and we decided it was high time we tried it out.
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