Several small, pretty creeks just off the Corniche Kennedy have miraculously preserved their typical character. Clusters of fishermen's cottages and brightly coloured traditional fishing boats huddle in a setting apparently unchanged for centuries yet a stone's throw from busy freeways, swish villas and high-rise housing blocks. The whole stretch of coast sums up Marseille's capacity to blend old and new, rich and poor. The most celebrated creek is the Vallon des Auffes - the name comes from
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