Lavender fields, hilltop villages and spectacular rocky fjords, rosé wine and bouillabaisse, Cézanne and Van Gogh, cutting edge rap and hip-hop music, Jean de Florette and Manon des Sources, pétanque, scuba diving and Olympique de Marseille: Provence is a vibrant mix of romantic tradition and surprising, fast-changing modernity. This is an insider's guide to the best of it, from a professional journalist living there.
Sunday, May 20, 2012
In Search of Romans and Artists in Saint Rémy de Provence
Monday, May 7, 2012
On the Wine Trail in Cassis
I'm very partial indeed to the white wines of Cassis and so I jumped at the chance recently to visit a couple of the vineyards there and find out more about them - and taste a glass or two as well, of course. Monsieur Bontoux, at the Château de Fontblanche (whose vines are shown in the picture, with Cap Canaille in the background) very kindly took a lot of time to chat to me about some of his secrets, about why Cassis doesn't make a sparking wine and why in this town, even more than elsewhere, you should never drink and drive..... Click here to read more.
Friday, May 4, 2012
When A Former Wine-Maker Opens a Restaurant
I took advantage of last weekend's trip to Marseille to try out a restaurant I'd heard quite a lot about. Prettily located at the bottom of the Old Town, Vinonéo is run by an ex-vigneron, Renaud Pierlot, who has transferred his passion into creating some very unusual food and wine pairings. Click here to read more.
Tuesday, May 1, 2012
The Dream of Colour in Marseille
Last weekend we went to have a look at the big summer show in Marseille: an exhibition, called The Dream of Colour, dedicated to the Austrian artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser at the Vieille Charité in the Old Town, one of my very favourite venues for shows, whatever their subject. The place was jam-packed with families (the kids were having a ball with Hundertwasser's brightly coloured work) and, though I've never been a huge fan of his painting, his woodcuts, lithographs, screen prints and other graphic experiments were a revelation. And it's all part of a much wider installation that will take over much of the centre of Marseille for the next few months. Click here for details of the show.
Friday, April 27, 2012
A Tour Through The Best Street Markets Of Marseille
At last I've got around to writing my guide to the best street markets in Marseille - and what a colourful and varied lot they turn out to be. You will find the traditional farmers' markers here too, of course, with olives, goat's cheeses, succulent fruit to die for and the whole nine yards. But Marseille is a big city as well, and its markets contain some surprising and original discoveries. Click here to read more.
Monday, April 23, 2012
A Walk In The Footsteps of Paul Cézanne
Few artists are as intimately identified with a city as Paul Cézanne is with Aix en Provence. He was born there, spent most of his life there (apart from two decades in Paris) and died there. In fact, it's just a ten minute walk from his birthplace to his grave. On a lovely spring afternoon recently, I went on a self-guided tour in the footsteps of the grand Aixois. It's a great way, too, of seeing some of the main sights of the city. Click here to read more.
Friday, April 20, 2012
A Spa Hotel On The Site of An Ancient Roman Baths
The Hotel Aquabella sits in a very pretty location, right by the walls of the Old Town of Aix en Provence on the site of the ancient baths which made the city so attractive to the Romans all those centuries ago. But is it an exclusive luxury spa destination, or a bland mid-market conference hotel? Click here to read more.
Monday, April 16, 2012
A Fishy Lunch on the Cassis Harbour Front
La Poissonerie in Cassis seems to be one of those love-it-or-loathe-it places. Some people swear by the warm welcome and fresh-from-the-slab fish at this traditional fishmonger's shop with restaurant attached right on the harbour, a stone's throw from the boats that supply it. Others say it's an overpriced tourist trap with indifferent food and terrible service. On a lovely spring day recently, I went along there for lunch. Click here to read more.
Friday, April 13, 2012
Stay in Marseille's Hippest New Hotel from 69 €uros a Night
Mama Shelter Marseille - from the team which created the acclaimed and awarded Mama Shelter Paris - opens today and is already being hailed as the coolest hotel in town. Plus its rooms start from a truly unbeatable 68 €uros. So is there a hidden catch? I went along to the press launch last night to take a look. Click here to read more
Sunday, April 8, 2012
Exploring the Old Town and Harbour of Cassis
Another recent visit to Cassis, this time shown around by the lovely Christine Francia from the town's tourist office, left us with an enormous treasure trove of new material and insider discoveries about this delightful little resort. Many tourists to Cassis just zip through town with a quick visit to the calanques and maybe the beaches, plus lunch at one of the colourful restaurants on the port. Nothing wrong with all that, of course. But Cassis has a lot more to offer. Click here to read more.
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