There's a bit of a cupid theme going at the Bistro d'Utopia, one of my favourite bars in this city. It's right behind the Palais des Papes but seems like a million miles from the tourist crowds milling round the Palace and the Place de l'Horloge. You get there down a narrow cobbled street behind the Pope's private garden, and discover a cosy den that attracts a hip, arty local crowd. It's right next to Avignon's best cinema, too, where you can see an enormous range of interesting films in their subtitled (as opposed to the more usual dubbed) versions.
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