It came as something of a surprise to find out that the one and only Michelin three-star restaurant in the whole of PACA (that huge chunk of south-east France covered by Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur) is not in the ritzy millionaires' playgrounds around Nice, Cannes and Monaco, but at the scruffy end of the coast: despite its name, Le Petit Nice is actually in Marseille. Now it's not every day that I dine at a three-star eaterie, but last week, to celebrate a birthday and a wedding anniversary, I went there for lunch.
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