One of the very many great pleasures of living in Provence at this time of year is the Charentais melon, with its jaunty, green-striped rind and aromatic, deep-orange, luscious flesh. An historic speciality of Cavaillon (the novelist Alexandre Dumas loved them so much he traded copies of his entire, compendious works in return for a regular supply), the melon is at the centre of the city's annual celebration of all things cucurbit in early July. This year disaster hit the fruit crops of Central Provence in the form of a freak hailstorm on 4 June. But the festivities are proceeding undiminished.
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