The chef Michel Portos had reached the pinacle of his profession. He'd bagged two Michelin stars for his cuisine at the ultra-swish Saint James restaurant in Bouliac, near Bordeaux, and had just been named Gault & Millau Chef of the Year for 2012. Then, like other top chefs before him, Portos, now nudging 50, decided he'd had enough of the pressure. Born in the rough northern suburbs of Marseille, he resolved to return to his roots and open an unpretentious classic brasserie - called Malthazar - in his native city.
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