Lavender fields, hilltop villages and spectacular rocky fjords, rosé wine and bouillabaisse, Cézanne and Van Gogh, cutting edge rap and hip-hop music, Jean de Florette and Manon des Sources, pétanque, scuba diving and Olympique de Marseille: Provence is a vibrant mix of romantic tradition and surprising, fast-changing modernity. This is an insider's guide to the best of it, from a professional journalist living there.
Tuesday, April 30, 2013
Join the Foreign Legion for Camerone Day
It's Camerone Day (something to do with a wooden protesthetic hand) today, a huge deal in
Aubagne where the French Foreign Legion is based. Apart from the usual
ceremonies and processions, the Legion's museum reopens after a year's closure for
renovations with one of the odder events of MP2013: a show of
photographs of legionnaires' tattoos. Click here to read more
Sunday, April 28, 2013
Surfing Along on a New Wave of Art
Don't you just love this funky camper van by the San
Francisco-based artist Jay Nelson? It's called Golden Gate, naturally,
is made of fibreglass and plywood and cruises along at a cool 20 mph. It's in a
new show in Marseille of art influenced by surfing and skateboarding
culture, accompanied by a month-long music festival including Pete Docherty (3 May) and the Wu-Tang Clan (24 May). What's not to like? Click here to read more
Friday, April 26, 2013
Picasso the Potter
Aubagne, a centre of terracotta in its own right, is hosting a major show - opening tomorrow - celebrating Pablo Picasso's Mediterranean-themed ceramics. After the Second World War until the end of his life, the artist, based in Vallauris, experimented with this medium, employing themes with a Southern flavour: ancient myths, the sun, bullfighting, doves and olive trees and, as always, women. Click here to read more
Thursday, April 25, 2013
A Hospice for the Needy Turned Luxury Hotel
Marseille gets a magnificent new five-star hotel this week in the shape of the historic Hôtel Dieu, The origins of this monumental building located on the edge of the Old Town and overlooking the Old Port date back to the 12th century when a hospice for the poor and needy was built on this site. It evolved and expanded in the course of the centuries, before finally undergoing an estimated 120 million €uro conversion, amid some controversy. Click here to read more
Monday, April 15, 2013
Marseille on Film: A New Book
Think of Marseille on film and the image that will flicker before most people's eyes is probably that of Popeye Doyle going cold turkey in The French Connection II which, back in 1975, did for the city's image as a tourist destination pretty much what Kim Jom Un is currently doing for North Korea. But the cinematic history of Marseille is much richer than that, as a new book, published today, reveals. Click here to read more
Monday, April 8, 2013
Malkovich returns to Dangerous Liaisons in Aix
If you loved John Malkovich as the libertine and arch-villain Valmont in Stephen Frears' 1988 Oscar-winning film of Les Liaisons Dangereuses, there's an unusual opportunity in Aix this month.
Malkovich is returning to the classic 18th century tale of seduction, corruption and betrayal - but this time as the director of a new production, with a young cast in their teens and twenties. Click here to read more
Malkovich is returning to the classic 18th century tale of seduction, corruption and betrayal - but this time as the director of a new production, with a young cast in their teens and twenties. Click here to read more
Friday, April 5, 2013
Carnival on Marseille's Old Port
Most countries hold their annual carnivals in
Mardi Gras week, but it's a (rather sensible) quirk of Provence that
many of its cities and small towns wait for better weather. Marseille
launches its party tomorrow, 6 April with a "mobile museum" on the Old
Port. Click here to read more
Wednesday, April 3, 2013
Whistling in the Wind
Some 500 music instruments whistle in the wind
throughout this month in the sound installation Harmonic Field, in the
coastal village of Les Goudes just south of Marseille. Cellos are just part of the unconventional soundscape: it also includes bicycle wheels, bamboo pipes, Balinese wind chimes and even suspended deckchairs or bits of crackling old plastic. Click here to read more
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)